Homemade Bagels, à la Jo Goldenberg Recipe (2024)

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ByAdam Kuban

Updated May 08, 2020

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Homemade Bagels, à la Jo Goldenberg Recipe (1)

This is my go-to recipe for homemade bagels. It's adapted from Bernard Clayton's Complete Book of Breads. Clayton, in turn, got the recipe from the folks at the now-defunct Jo Goldenberg's, the famous Jewish restaurant and delicatessen in Le Marais, the historical Jewish quarter of Paris.

These bagels take about thee hours from start to finish, a large chunk of that time being the hourlong rise and the 30 or so minutes in the oven. Make these for a brunch party, tell your guests they came from your oven, and watch their socks get knocked off. There's something about homemade bagels that really impresses people.

Recipe Details

Homemade Bagels, à la Jo Goldenberg Recipe

Active60 mins

Total3 hrs

Serves10 bagels

Ingredients

  • 19.25 ounces bread flour (3 1/2 cups; 530g)

  • 1/4 ounceinstant dry yeast (2 1/2 teaspoons; 1 envelope active dry; 7g)

  • 2 tablespoons sugar

  • 1 tablespoon salt

  • 12 ounces hot water(1 1/2 cups; 340g; 120°–130°F)

  • 1 1/2 tablespoons malt syrup (for the boiling water; alternatively, you can use 1 1/2 tablespoons sugar)

  • 1 egg beaten with 1 teaspoon water (optional, for toppings)

Directions

  1. Add all the dry ingredients to the bowl of a food processor and pulse until mixed, about 5 seconds. With processor running, slowly add the water; process until dough comes together and rides up over the blade, about 30 seconds. Continue processing until dough becomes satiny and elastic, about 30 seconds more.

  2. Transfer dough to a large, lightly oiled bowl and cover tightly with plastic wrap. Let rise until doubled in bulk, about 1 hour.

  3. After dough has risen but before you divide and shape it, prepare your water bath: Add the malt syrup to 6 quarts of water over high heat and let it come to a boil as you continue with the following steps.

    Also: Preheat the oven to 400°F.

    Homemade Bagels, à la Jo Goldenberg Recipe (3)

  4. After dough has doubled in bulk, turn it out onto a lightly floured work surface and press down with your fingers to expel the gases. Divide dough into 10 equal portions.

  5. Ball a portion of dough, then roll it into a "rope" about 7 inches long and about 1 inch thick. (Tip: I like to taper the ends slightly in preparation for the next step.)

    Homemade Bagels, à la Jo Goldenberg Recipe (4)

  6. Wrap the dough around the back of your hand, overlapping the ends in your palm. Place your hand, along with the dough, palm-down on the work surface and roll dough back and forth until ends crimp and seal together. Place dough ring under a span of plastic wrap while you repeat rope-and-loop process with remaining dough portions.

    Tip: You can brush a little water on the ends to help them stick, but this dough is wet enough that it usually comes together without help.

    A note on hand size: The recipe calls for wrapping the rope around your palm, but I like a smaller, tighter bagel, so I wrap it around my first three fingers, as shown. If you have a smaller hand, you could probably wrap it around all your fingers.

    Homemade Bagels, à la Jo Goldenberg Recipe (5)

  7. Allow bagels to rise again for 10 minutes. At this point, your malt syrup–water should be boiling. Use a skimmer or slotted spoon to carefully add bagels, one at a time, to the water. (Note: no more in the pot than 3 at a time.) Bagels should sink but then rise again after a few seconds. Simmer for 1 minute, flipping bagels at the 30-second mark.

    Tip: The original recipe calls for this second rising, but I often skip it. I've found it makes very little, if any, noticeable difference.

    Homemade Bagels, à la Jo Goldenberg Recipe (6)

  8. Remove bagels from water with skimmer or slotted spoon to a clean kitchen towel. Pat dry.

    If making plain bagels, proceed to Step 10.

  9. For bagel toppings: Place bagels on wire cooling rack set over a rimmed baking sheet. Brush bagel tops with egg-water mixture. Shake on desired toppings. Sesame seed, poppy seed, kosher salt, minced onion, and minced garlic are classic (at least in NYC).

    The baking sheet will collect excess dry toppings (such as sesame or poppy seeds). Simply pour them back into their containers for reuse.

    Homemade Bagels, à la Jo Goldenberg Recipe (7)

  10. Place bagels on prepared baking sheet. Bake until light brown and shiny, 15 to 20 minutes. Flip, and bake until reverse side is golden-brown and shiny, about 10 minutes more.

    Homemade Bagels, à la Jo Goldenberg Recipe (8)

Special equipment

Large baking sheet, oiled with shortening or nonstick cooking spray and then dusted with cornmeal (or just use a nonstick baking sheet or parchment)

This Recipe Appears In

  • How to Make Bagels at Home
  • Baking
Nutrition Facts (per serving)
213Calories
1g Fat
43g Carbs
7g Protein

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Nutrition Facts
Servings: 10
Amount per serving
Calories213
% Daily Value*
Total Fat 1g1%
Saturated Fat 0g1%
Cholesterol 0mg0%
Sodium 638mg28%
Total Carbohydrate 43g16%
Dietary Fiber 1g5%
Total Sugars 5g
Protein 7g
Vitamin C 0mg0%
Calcium 12mg1%
Iron 1mg3%
Potassium 70mg1%
*The % Daily Value (DV) tells you how much a nutrient in a food serving contributes to a daily diet. 2,000 calories a day is used for general nutrition advice.

(Nutrition information is calculated using an ingredient database and should be considered an estimate.)

Homemade Bagels, à la Jo Goldenberg Recipe (2024)

FAQs

Why do you have to use baking soda to boil bagels? ›

Baking soda makes the water more alkaline, giving the bagels a pretzel-like quality that contributes to their chewiness. Just one teaspoon helps the bagels develop a shiny, dark-brown exterior as they bake.

Is it cheaper to make your own bagels? ›

Making Homemade Bagels is cheaper than buying them. Although going to a bagel shop makes for a delicious meal, it gets expensive quick. That's why we love making them at home. This recipe gives you all the things you want in a bagel.

What is the poaching liquid for bagels? ›

The Poaching Liquid

I boil them in a mix of maple syrup, baking soda, salt, and water to give them a light golden brown color, a crave-worthy chewy exterior, and a nice shiny finish.

Why are my homemade bagels flat? ›

Bagels deflate when they're overproofed.

Is it better to boil or not boil bagels? ›

The boiling process gelatinizes the starches on the surface, creating a glossy, crackly crust during baking. Additionally, boiling gives the bagel its characteristic dense interior while maintaining a tender crumb. Baking: Once they're boiled, bagels are transferred to the oven for baking.

Why do you put honey in boiling water for bagels? ›

Add honey and baking soda to boiling water in a large pot. This will help give the bagels a nice sheen and golden brown color when out of the oven. Add a few bagels at a time to the pot, making sure they're not crowded. They should float immediately when added to the water.

Why does New York water make bagels better? ›

a regular bagel is the water you boil them in. Much like a specific vineyard terroir is used to make a wine, certain minerals in New York City tap water are attributed to creating the best bagels. These include low concentrations of calcium and magnesium and a high level of sediment.

What do Jews put in bagels? ›

Bagels and lox is one of the best Jewish deli favorites and usually consists of an open-faced or ring-shaped bread piece known as a bagel that is topped with thinly sliced red onions, cream cheese, briny capers, and lox. A lox bagel is typically eaten for breakfast and includes both a bagel and lox.

Why boil bagels in sugar water? ›

What you're trying to do, by boiling or steaming bagels before baking, is to kill the yeast, so the bagels won't rise in the oven and become puffy, rather than staying rather dense and chewy. You're also adding a very thin coating of sugar—malt, in this case—which gives bagels their distinctive shiny crust. Eureka!

What flour is best for bagels? ›

Ingredients for Homemade Bagels:
  • Bread flour – The higher protein level in bread flour helps to create that chewy texture that makes bagels so delightful. ...
  • Instant yeast – You can also use active dry yeast, just note your dough may take longer to rise. ...
  • Fine sea salt – You can also use table salt.
May 1, 2023

What happens if you let bagels rise too long? ›

5) When it comes to boiling, the gentler the better

(This is another reason to let them rise a few minutes less — they're easier to pick up and put in the water, while over-proofed bagels will be more delicate.)

How to know when homemade bagels are done? ›

Get a thermometer for sure! That way, you can just poke it right in without needing to cut it! If it reads 190 degrees F then it's done!

What is a substitute for baking soda in bagels? ›

When you are out of baking soda, you could use an alternative like baking powder or egg whites to produce a similar flavor and texture in your product.

What happens if you don't boil bagels before baking? ›

One of the most important steps in making bagels. is boiling before baking. Baking the dough right away gives a bagel with a matte. finish and an open interior structure. Boiling the bagel pre gelatinizes the crust.

Why boil with baking soda? ›

The Power of Baking Soda

Examples of alkali metals include sodium, potassium, and more. When you combine alkaline compounds such as baking soda with an acid, they produce carbon dioxide bubbles which helps cooking batter to rise.

Why are bagels boiled in lye? ›

Sometimes lye (sodium hydroxide) is added to raise the pH of the crust, which promotes browning and caramelization during the bake (this is identical to how pretzels are given their signature flavor and appearance, though in the case of bagels the concentration of lye used is much lower).

References

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